Saw bones into pieces as necessary to fit your largest stockpot. Soak bones in cold water for 15 minutes to remove impurities.

Drain and discard the soaking water. Preheat oven to 400° F. Pat the bones dry and arrange on a large baking tray and roast until browned, about 20 minutes. Add bones to the stockpot and pour in fresh water—bones should be covered by at least 1 inch.

Cover pot and turn burner to high heat. On the same pan you used to roast meat, arrange vegetables pieces. Toss to coat with any fat left in the pan. Roast until just browned, about 20 minutes. Set aside.

Keep an eye on the pot of bones and skim off any scum that rises to the surface—as the water nears boiling, the scum will rise more rapidly. Keep skimming until you’ve removed as much as possible.

Once water is boiling and the liquid is as clear as you can get it (don’t sweat it too much), add the vegetables and all the seasonings. Bring to a boil once more and reduce heat to medium-low.

Remove the cover. Simmer the pot for around 8 hours (a wood stove is ideal for this task) until the stock has reduced by about 4 inches. The aim is to have as slow a simmer as possible (ideally, 1 large bubble at a time just barely breaking the surface).

Once stock is done, remove bones with tongs and place in a bowl, which will make pouring the stock through a strainer easier. (My dog loves the scraps of meat that come off the bones, with the fat removed. He would love the fat too but he is denied that treat.)

Pour stock through a strainer into several large bowls to cool as rapidly as possible. (I put mine on the porch with a screen overtop.)

Once stock has cooled, skim off fat—save it if you think you will use it, or discard in the compost. Pour stock into containers with lids and freeze. Use in soups, stews, gravies, sauces, or just enjoy it on its own.