Spring Onions

One of the first vegetables to come up in my garden in spring is evergreen bunching onions (Allium fistulosum). A wise neighbor taught me that you can plant these cold-hardy onions one spring from seed and if you leave some bulbs in the ground, green onion shoots will come the next year. Bunching onions are also called green onions, and are a bit bigger than scallions (Allium cepa). Scallions have tender leaves, a long white shank, and a tendency not to form a bulb, whereas bunching onions have bigger bulbs, thicker juicy stalks, and more onion flavor. Wild onions (Allium schoenoprasum), which are more like chives, are another spring favorite. These have a thin and tender stalk, purple flowers, and a more delicate flavor. I don’t usually harvest the bulbs or bottoms because I want the onions to grow back, and they are so small. All have edible flowers, which are less tasty than the rest of the plant, but the flowers can provide color to a dish.

All of these spring onions add some green and freshness to spring meals. These alliums are delicious on salads, in stir fries, and with eggs. They are also great for condiments. Ginger scallion sauce can be used as a marinade for fish and chicken, or can be spread on many foods (eggs, rice, bread, etc.). Inspired by Momofuku’s Bo Ssam recipe, one way I use this sauce is with a slow cooked pork shoulder and rice wrapped in lettuce.