A Moment in the Pandemic

Editors’ Note: One thing we all notice in our new reality: even though some days seem to last forever, the situation changes quickly. We’re so grateful to Ben Huff for capturing this moment in early April as small businesses in Juneau continued to persevere, and work together to survive, during our hunker down.

HERE: The Rookery: Barista, Kristen, hands a curbside latte to a customer on Juneau’s Seward Street at The Rookery Café.

Set 1:

1. The Rookery: Inside, Kristen and Sophie tape lines on the floor to help customers adhere to 6-foot social distancing rules. Later that day, The Rookery closed to weather the pandemic.

2. Lupo+Amalga: A customer has quarantine essentials on the front seat of her car—a lime and a four pack of Gin and Tonics from Amalga Distillery and a margherita pizza from In Bocca al Lupo sold by Amalga. Chef Beau Schooler began selling frozen pizzas after dine-in options closed at Bocca. Even after take-out stopped, Schooler continued making pizzas solo for Amalga to sell.

3 & 4. Amalga: Amalga began making hand sanitizer for Juneau nonprofits. Amalga also took the opportunity to tackle other projects they long wanted to do. They started offering more of their cocktails in cans by carry out. They also started selling their four-packs to liquor stores for the first time while canning their beloved tonic to accompany their bottled gin in cocktails made at home. So far, they have kept their small staff employed.

Set 2:

1. Lupo: In Bocca al Lupo customers Brett and Jordan pick up frozen pizzas and fermented lemons. They regularly ordered takeout from their favorite restaurants to help support them. Chef/owner Beau Schooler kept his staff on until finally closing on March 30th. He re-opened a pantry shop with high-end food, ingredients, and spices. He also offered fresh homemade pasta, preserved lemons, and cured meats. One big draw was his daily offering of bagels, which many in the community have missed since the Silverbow bakery, formerly in the same spot, closed. His pizzas were most popular, though, which he made and then froze for takeout. Though he’d sell out most nights, it wasn’t enough to keep the doors open. Beau says, “We’ve applied for the SBA loan, and a grant through JBF. But a lot of the other programs don’t make a lot of sense. Can’t really pay back a loan if you’re not able to even pay your bills when you open. I think things are going to be bleak for the industry as a whole. Some won’t recover from this initial closing, others won’t make it a year after reopening. We won’t have cruise ships, tourism will be down, and that has a huge trickle down effect to the economy here. So people whose business model depended on that are going to have a hard time. If I make it to next summer I will consider us a success, figuring out what to do to make that happen is unclear. I have a good crew, who truly care about what we are doing here. Once we can get back to it we will get creative and tackle this problem any way we can.”

2. Roma Bistro: Server Lauren Montez of Roma Bistro on the Wharf waits for customers for carry out or curbside service. The newly remodeled Roma is a hip meeting place downtown where dark tones, music, and close seating make it a place to be cozy.

3. Barnaby Brewing: Alyssa Mrozek and Joe Krieger stand behind the Barnaby Brewing tasting room bar, ready to sell crowlers for takeout. They’re friends of the owners and volunteering to give owners time off with their family.

4. The Hangar on the Warf: A to-go order of potato salad awaits pickup on The Hangar on the Wharf’s bar.

Set 3

1. The Hangar on the Wharf: bartender, Nathan Upton, takes to-go orders. The Hangar sits on the pier with a view of the channel where cruise ships dock during normal summers and float planes take off and land, flying tourists on sightseeing tours of the Taku Glacier.

2. Coppa: Coppa owner Marc Wheeler and his team of four began selling the family-sized pans of mac and cheese. Their online weekly donut orders are also popular, along with to-go TV-dinner-style meals that change weekly. Wheeler appreciates all the community support and misses Coppa’s usual role as a gathering spot; it doesn’t feel the same when it’s empty. Still, he says, ”The simple act of making donuts can feel like it gives some light to people. As long as it’s safe, we’d like to be there for the community.”

This story appeared in Edible Alaska No. 16, Summer 2020. See it there in the digital edition of the magazine.