Salt Packed Hooligan from Haines

Saak, salvation fish, eulachon, hooligan, ooligan, candlefish, Pacific smelt—whatever you call these mighty, mysterious beings, word spreads quickly when the fish are in. A raucous chorus of gulls and bellowing sea lions echo across river mouths and inlets at the return of these nutrient-packed powerhouses, putting a smile on the face of anyone who knows the significance of their existence and return. When a text came through from Haines-based Chef Travis Kukull that Chilkoot River was looking good, we headed out just before high tide to gather, give thanks, and cheer on the incoming bounty. Travis prepares saak in many ways and offered this gorgeous, generous recipe:

Salt Packed Eulachon

You’ll need a chamber vacuum sealer. Ratios are not important. What is important is cleaning the fish, which can take some time.

Place your cleaned fish in a pan and completely cover them in kosher salt.

Pack fish and salt in the vacuum bags and seal them. Store in the fridge for 1 day before moving to the freezer.

When you want to use the fish, defrost and then remove them from bags. Wash and soak in fresh water for 20 minutes. You can then filet them to be used as a substitute for anchovies in Bagna Cauda, which is chopped garlic with anchovies and chilies roasted in olive oil. It is a great condiment with many uses and is very shelf stable. I find that though condiments like these take a long while to make, once you have them, they can turn the simplest meal into something memorable and divine.

Try making garlic bread with your Eulachon Bagna Cauda and Parmigiana Reggiano instead of just garlic, you will thank me.