Seafood Fusion Infusion
A lone outpost of white-tablecloth dining in West Anchorage, Kincaid Grill sits among quiet neighborhoods, the moose-haunted woods of Kincaid Park, and the international airport. One of the most lauded restaurants in Anchorage, it anchors an unassuming strip mall frequented by discerning repeat customers hooked on their quintessential Alaska Regional Cuisine spotlighting local, fresh ingredients and refinement.
Chef Drew Johnson says he “was born into a restaurant family” and knew from a young age that he wanted to become a chef. His parents owned and operated a BBQ restaurant in Russellville, Alabama where he grew up. In 2005, when he moved north, he brought a passion that has served him—and many satisfied diners—very well. He worked in restaurants around Anchorage while studying in the University of Alaska Culinary Program, which eventually helped land him a job at Kincaid Grill, opened by the talented and prominent Chef Al Levinsohn in 2003.
Levinsohn’s considerable influence on Anchorage’s fine dining culinary scene started in the 1980s. He’s worked in and helped establish several restaurants, garnered numerous accolades, and appeared several times on the Food Network. Through his restaurants, community work, and television work—he hosted the regional television show What’s Cookin’? With Chef Al—he became a recognizable face of Alaskan cuisine. Over his many years at the Grill, Johnson has been a guest chef on both Levinsohn’s show as well as Cooking AK with Chef Patrick Hoogerhyde. In 2018, he represented Alaska in the Great American Seafood Cook-Off. Johnson was even a winning contestant on Guy Fieri’s popular Food Network TV show, Guy’s Grocery Games. “I was able to go on there and pull home a win for Alaska,” he said. “I just went in knowing that I wasn’t gonna let anybody down including myself.”
The Kincaid Grill menu includes fresh-caught king salmon, halibut, scallops, and shrimp, as well as filet mignon, chicken, and duck. They offer vegan and vegetarian entrees, too. Johnson features each season’s flavors and textures, locally-sourced when possible, with hints of his southern Alabama upbringing and notes of a Pacific Northwest influence. Options like buttermilk fried chicken and gumbo provide contrast with Alaska seafood options.
Chef Johnson was a fitting protege to Levinsohn. Johnson’s work ethic and talent helped him ascend the ranks at Kincaid Grill from prep cook to Sous Chef after five years, and then Executive Chef. Now he owns and runs the place with a chefy kind of wisdom: “When eating a dish, it’s all about balance. Everything about the dish is balance.” Just as he works to achieve the right combinations of sweet and savory flavors, or crunchy and creamy textures, he creates entire dining experiences using everything at hand—service, cellar, ingredients, tradition, season—to exquisite effect.
This special series of recipes and secrets from Alaska’s favorite restaurants is brought to you by Linford of Alaska wholesale foods as they celebrate their 50th anniversary. Make space on your bookshelf for Linford’s forthcoming cookbook that compiles these recipes in celebration of the 49th state’s iconic restaurants and recipes.